SPECIES: GIANT DAY GECKOS
PHELSUMA MADARGASCARIENSIS spp.

This group of day geckos is probably the easiest of the genus to start with. They are hardy and easy to maintain plus beautiful to watch, they should not be handled due to the delicate nature of their skin.

Distribution: Madagascar.

Description: These day geckos are vivid emerald green (though darken if stressed). Juveniles have orange to red dots on their backs, which some adults keep. Adults grow to about 25cm. They are arboreal and have lamella on their feet allowing them to climb the glass slides of vivariums.

HOUSING: Giant day geckos are best housed in pairs due to the potential aggressive nature of the females. They are arboreal so the require a tank that is taller than it is long 30cm x 30cm x 36cm (LWH) is adequate for a breeding pair.

The ideal substrate is a 60/40 peat/sand mix which retains moisture without getting dusty. There should be several branches for climbing and rocks and bark to hide in and around, even large leafed plants can be incorporated to give a more natural effect.

Heating can be provided using a heatmat that covers 1/3 to 1/2 of the floor area, keeping the viv around 25- 30c. UV light should be provided. The vivarium should be heavily sprayed with water at least twice a week to maintain humidity and to mimic their natural habitat. If a wooden vivarium is used make sure it is well varnished a sealed.

DIET: Day Geckos will take a variety of insects, such as crickets, spiders and mealworms, these should be dusted with a calcium /D3 supplement every 2 -3 feeds. They will also take a nectar substitute such as sugar water or sweet fruit baby food such as Milupa sun-ripe banana. Adults are fed 6-7 medium crickets each every 2 - 3 days, plus twice a week hey are given baby food. Breeding females require additional calcium which they store in their calcium sacks on their necks, this can be achieved by breaking up cuttle fish and scattering it around the vivarium, the females will nibble this over a period of time.

Water should always be available in a bowl, this is best positioned near a wall so that the gecko can climb down and drink. Some animals will only lap water from walls and leaves so it is always important to spray every few days.

BREEDING: Although it is possible to maintain these animals in colonies of 3-4 females to a male, it should only be done if the animals are introduced at a very young age. This is necessary, as females can be extremely aggressive to other females. Sexing of adults is easy as males have prominent femoral pores and hemipenal bulges.

My colonies tend to breed from December through to August, others find theirs start around November. The first visual signs of mating tend to be bite marks around the females' neck. These can appear quite horrific, as the skin is so delicate. Once mated the female will lay one or two eggs every 4 - 6 weeks.

When the female is about to lay she will find a secluded spot and lay her eggs, this is often done on her back. She will hold each egg in her rear feet until the egg hardens. Luckily these geckos are not gluer's like some so the eggs can easily be removed for incubation. I maintain my eggs on sand at 27- 30c, the eggs hatch after 45-70days. The babies are about 5-7cm in length. They are best raised individually on the same diet as the adults but in appropriate size. Sexing is not possible for 4-5 months. Adult size can be achieved in 14-18 months.

AUTHOR K. HOLLINGSWORTH (24/03/96)

REFERENCES: The general care and maintenance of Day Geckos

Sean McKeown

PRAS offers you this care sheet for your own information, should you wish to republish then please do not edit or reformat this sheet in any way and quote PRAS as the source.

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